Best Watches to Increase in Value

Investing in a luxury watch is much more than owning a piece of functional art—it’s a statement, a marker of taste, and perhaps most enticingly, a potential source of long-term financial gain. Whether you're a seasoned watch collector or someone entering the world of horology for the first time, there’s always the question: which watches will appreciate over time?

As more people recognize that luxury watches can serve as tangible investments, their market has expanded into a growing field of alternative assets, competing with art, wine, and real estate. However, the allure of buying a luxury timepiece goes beyond its potential monetary return—there's craftsmanship, history, and scarcity to consider. But when it comes to long-term value appreciation, there are some key brands and models that consistently outshine the rest.

In this comprehensive guide, we'll dissect which timepieces you should consider as part of your portfolio, based on their past performance, brand reputation, craftsmanship, and market demand. Whether you’re leaning towards established giants like Rolex or taking a more adventurous route with lesser-known but high-quality brands like FP Journe, understanding what makes a watch appreciate is essential to making an informed purchase.

The Power of the Brand: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet
One cannot discuss investment watches without mentioning the “Big Three”—Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. These are the titans of the watch world, known for their unparalleled craftsmanship, heritage, and demand in both the primary and secondary markets.

1. Rolex:
   Rolex is the quintessential investment brand. Known for its durability, precision, and strong brand identity, Rolex watches have a history of holding their value exceptionally well. The brand's dedication to quality has built an unmatched global reputation, making their models highly sought after in both the new and used markets.

   • Best Rolex Models for Investment:
     • Submariner: Iconic and instantly recognizable, the Submariner has been a consistent performer in terms of value retention. The classic design combined with its historical significance ensures continued demand.
     • Daytona: The Rolex Daytona, especially in stainless steel, has seen significant appreciation in value over the years. Its association with racing legend Paul Newman only adds to its desirability.
     • GMT-Master II "Pepsi": With its signature blue-and-red bezel, this model is a favorite among collectors and consistently holds its value, especially in limited editions.

   According to recent market data, Rolex watches appreciate at an average of 5-10% annually. Even during economic downturns, they have demonstrated resilience, making them a solid choice for long-term investment.

2. Patek Philippe:
   Patek Philippe has long been the brand of choice for serious collectors, with the brand’s motto, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” capturing the essence of its long-term appeal. A Patek Philippe is not just a watch; it’s a generational asset.

   • Best Patek Philippe Models for Investment:
     • Nautilus 5711: The stainless steel version of this model has become the holy grail for many collectors, with prices often exceeding three times their original retail value on the secondary market.
     • Aquanaut: Though slightly overshadowed by the Nautilus, the Aquanaut offers a sportier design and has also shown impressive value appreciation over time.
     • Calatrava: Known for its understated elegance, the Calatrava line offers a more conservative yet highly desirable option for investors.

   Patek Philippe’s limited production and exclusive clientele keep its prices high, with certain models experiencing annual price increases upwards of 15-20%.

3. Audemars Piguet:
   Audemars Piguet is known for producing highly complicated watches with unique designs, and the Royal Oak collection is its crown jewel. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak has become synonymous with luxury sports watches.

   • Best Audemars Piguet Models for Investment:
     • Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin: This model is often considered the most valuable within the Royal Oak line due to its thin case and classic design.
     • Royal Oak Offshore: With its bulkier design, the Offshore appeals to those who want a more aggressive aesthetic, and it too has seen value increases over the years.
     • Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar: Complications such as a perpetual calendar increase both the desirability and value of the watch over time.

   As Audemars Piguet limits its production and appeals to a very affluent demographic, their watches have shown consistent growth in the pre-owned market, especially with models that feature complications.

Rising Stars: FP Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin
While the Big Three dominate the investment watch world, there are other brands that are rapidly gaining recognition and appreciation among collectors. These brands may offer a higher risk, but they also have the potential for significant rewards.

1. FP Journe:
   FP Journe watches are relatively new in comparison to the long-established giants, but they have gained immense popularity due to their intricate complications and limited production. Journe's dedication to creating every component of his watches in-house, combined with the brand’s low annual production (around 900 pieces), ensures exclusivity.

   • Best FP Journe Models for Investment:
     • Chronomètre à Résonance: Known for its dual movement system, this model is a marvel of horological engineering.
     • Tourbillon Souverain: The tourbillon complication in this model adds significant value, with prices steadily increasing on the secondary market.
     • Octa Divine: With its automatic movement and moon phase complication, the Octa Divine offers a strong balance of beauty and functionality.

   FP Journe’s limited availability and cult following make it a highly speculative but potentially rewarding investment, with values increasing significantly as the brand gains more recognition.

2. A. Lange & Söhne:
   Known for its German precision and mechanical innovation, A. Lange & Söhne has been quietly gaining traction in the watch-collecting community. While they may not have the same widespread recognition as Rolex or Patek Philippe, their watches are known for unparalleled craftsmanship.

   • Best A. Lange & Söhne Models for Investment:
     • Lange 1: The asymmetric dial design has become iconic for the brand, and limited production ensures strong resale values.
     • Zeitwerk: Known for its digital time display, the Zeitwerk is a modern marvel and has shown impressive appreciation over time.
     • Saxonia: This line is slightly more conservative in design but offers great value for investors looking for a watch with a long-term growth potential.

   While not as mainstream as Swiss counterparts, A. Lange & Söhne watches are coveted by those in the know and offer substantial growth potential due to their exclusivity and craftsmanship.

3. Vacheron Constantin:
   One of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, Vacheron Constantin offers history, craftsmanship, and rarity. With limited production runs, this brand has been a sleeper hit in the investment world.

   • Best Vacheron Constantin Models for Investment:
     • Overseas: The Overseas collection has seen a resurgence in recent years, with demand growing steadily in the secondary market.
     • Patrimony: With its minimalist design, the Patrimony appeals to those who appreciate understated elegance, and it has shown strong value retention over time.
     • Historiques American 1921: This model stands out for its unique design and historical significance, making it a favorite among collectors.

   Vacheron Constantin watches have the added benefit of heritage and tradition, which keeps their prices relatively stable even during market fluctuations.

Key Factors to Consider When Investing in Watches
When looking for a watch to increase in value, several key factors come into play:

• Rarity: Limited editions and rare models tend to appreciate more in value.
• Condition: Watches in pristine condition, preferably with their original box and papers, fetch higher prices.
• Provenance: A watch with an interesting history, or one owned by a famous individual, can command a premium.
• Complications: Watches with complex mechanisms, such as perpetual calendars, tourbillons, or minute repeaters, are typically more valuable.
• Market Trends: Understanding current market demand and upcoming trends in the horological world can help predict which watches will appreciate in the future.

Conclusion: A Timeless Investment
The world of watches is more than just a realm of luxury—it's a playground for investors who understand the intricacies of brand value, craftsmanship, and scarcity. While some models and brands are known to consistently appreciate, others may provide unexpected returns if you understand what to look for. From the legendary status of Rolex and Patek Philippe to the rising stars of FP Journe and A. Lange & Söhne, the right watch can be more than just a timepiece—it can be a long-term investment.

Invest wisely, and you might find that the right watch not only tells time but also grows in value, year after year.